“It was not like any human face. It was as long as his arm, and ghastly white. Breath jetted in vapor from what must be nostrils, and terrible, unmistakable, there was an eye. A large, dark eye, mournful, perhaps cynical? gone in the flash of the car’s lights.
‘What was that?’
‘Donkey, wasn’t it?’
“An animal?’”
—Ursula K. Le Guin, The Dispossessed
On the 10th of July, 2024, a celebrity was born: Moo Deng. Interestingly named after a Thai variety of pork meatball that resembles the newborn hippo’s roundness and bounciness, she quickly became an internet sensation. In addition to the many videos and photos shared by the Khao Kheow Open Zoo’s Instagram account and gleeful visitors, artists from all over the world also shared their fan art, and wanting to cash in on Moo Deng’s global popularity, Sephora’s Thai account even shared a post that shows a number of products which could help potential customers to “wear [their] blush like a baby hippo.” For a few months following Moo Deng’s birth, the algorithm made it seem like this family of hippos in a Thai zoo were the only animals on the planet. Images of Moo Deng were guaranteed to grace my timeline on a daily basis, and I couldn’t complain because I, too, became a fan.
Over a year has passed and Moo Deng is no longer a baby and her celebrity status appears to have waned since her first few months on this planet. Anyone who has seen videos of Moo Deng would know that her unique character is one the reasons behind her fame. The videos in which she interacts with her zoo keeper shows how much of a personality she has. She was not a calm baby—she was an “angy” one. Even though her size was minuscule compared to her mother’s, her energy was a lot larger. She always seemed to be doing something, even when she was just resting. Moo Deng entertained us.
What does it mean to experience joy from watching animals in a zoo? The screen might have temporarily made us forget the fact that Moo Deng resides in what is ultimately a large cage. She is loved and adored, but she is not where she is supposed to be. Over four decades before the Moo Deng craze, John Berger wrote in “Why Look at Animals?”:
“Public zoos came into existence at the beginning of the period which was to see the disappearance of animals from daily life. The zoo to which people go to meet animals, to observe them, to see them, is, in fact, a monument to the impossibility of such encounters.”
These days, the concept of animal rights is not the fringe issue that it once was. From the linguistic choice of using terms such a “adopting” or “fostering” pets instead of “buying” or “owning” them (though arguments against anthropocentrism can indeed be made) to marketing strategies that highlight cosmetics or skincare products that have not been tested on animals, we might be led to believe that there is an air of care towards the wellbeing of animals. However, zoos still exist, and they are still popular. Even ones that are spacious and boast of near-authentic conditions for each animal, at the end of the day, are still zoos. To say that one zoo is better than the other is like saying that electric cars are more environmentally-friendly than regular cars even though both vehicles rely on extractive industries in order to function. While zoos are one of the few recreational places in highly commercialized cities that are affordable for people across different classes and so many cities have them that their existence is taken for granted, they did not come into being for the sake of animals.
Like the museum, the zoo as an institution is a product of European colonial conquest. It is no coincidence that the oldest zoos are located in Europe: The Schönbrunn Zoo in Vienna was established in 1752, The Jardin des Plantes in Paris in 1793, the London Zoo in 1828, the Artis Royal Zoo in Amsterdam in 1838, the Antwerp Zoo in 1843, and the Berlin Zoo in 1844. The most powerful European nations did not only loot precious objects—many of which have not been returned to their places of origin—during the long and violent era of colonialism, but they also took plants, animals, and even humans, to put on display in the metropoles. Berger writes that zoos “brought considerable prestige to the national capitals” and gifting exotic animals to zoos was also a common form of diplomacy. Both zoos and museums were (and still are) part of the propaganda machine. Berger continues:
“Yet, like every other 19th century public institution, the zoo, however supportive of the ideology of imperialism, had to claim an independent and civic function. The claim was that it was another kind of museum, whose purpose was to further knowledge and public enlightenment.”
I read Berger’s essay many years ago, and it is one among his many brilliant pieces of writing that has stuck with me. Since the pandemic—perhaps due to a severe lack of human interaction—I have been nurturing an interest in animals, particularly birds. Earlier this year, I discovered that sparrows had been gathering grass, twine and even clumps of hair to build a nest for the mating season behind my condenser unit. Luckily they had only just begun to collect things and no egg was in sight. After carefully removing what could have been a cosy home for a family of sparrows, I started to really pay attention the birds that would often come by. Apart from the little sparrows, there were at least three other species that would make regular visits. My husband refers to my obsession as “research” and though I think that sounds too serious and methodical for my amateurish endeavor, I am starting to embrace it. So I decided to celebrate my birthday with the birds at the Ragunan Zoo or Taman Margasatwa Ragunan. As I was sitting in the bus, I kept thinking about John Berger. “Putri, why look at animals?” I imagined him asking (or interrogating) me. And yet I didn’t get off the bus, even though it had started to rain.
When I arrived at the zoo, I was surprised that it was crowded as it was a weekday. I had anticipated the presence of schoolchildren, but not families and large groups of adults. I also did not expect the zoo to be enormous, so upon walking through the entrance gate, I decided to simply follow the directions on the signs that showed the names and small illustrations of the animals. The rain stopped not long after, so I began to walk in the direction of the birds. On my way there, I stopped by the primate enclosure. As I was observing the macaques, I quickly registered how bored they seemed. There wasn’t much to do in such a small space. Some of them were eating, while others were just sitting in the corner of their cage. I was suddenly reminded of something my father had shared with me when I was in my 20s, “When I brought you to the zoo when you were little, you didn’t find it fun.” When I asked why he thought I wasn’t having fun, he then said, “You asked me, ‘Why are the animals in there, but we’re out here?’” I couldn’t recall ever having posed such a question, but now that I think about it, I don’t have many memories of going to zoos in my childhood, so I guess my father took my question to heart and chose other places to take me to instead. The macaques were still chewing an unidentifiable fruit. I then made my way to the bird section. Berger again:
“A zoo is a place where as many species and varieties of animal as possible are collected in order that they can be seen, observed, studied. In principle, each cage is a frame round the animal inside it. Visitors visit the zoo to look at animals. They proceed from cage to cage, not unlike visitors in an art gallery who stop in front of one painting, and then move on to the next or the one after the next. Yet in the zoo the view is always wrong. Like an image out of focus. One is so accustomed to this that one scarcely notices it any more; or, rather, the apology habitually anticipates the disappointment, so that the latter is not felt. And the apology runs like this: What do you expect? It’s not a dead object you have come to look at, it’s alive. It’s leading its own life. Why should this coincide with is being properly visible? Yet the reasoning of this apology is inadequate. The truth is more startling.”
| Scheepmaker's crowned pigeons |
In the bird section, I saw peacocks, pheasants, macaws, cockatoos, and large pigeons. I spent quite some time there, watching and taking photos for my “research.” The birds were undoubtedly beautiful, but their predicament also dulled their beauty. I tried to imagine how differently they would have moved and how much more beautifully the colors of their feathers would have shone if they had been in their natural habitats. Though the cages they were in weren’t exactly small, no cage would ever big enough for them or for any of the other animals within the zoo. Berger:
“However you look at these animals, even if the animal is up against the bars, less than a foot from you, looking outwards in the public direction, you are looking at something that has been rendered absolutely marginal; and all the concentration you can muster will never be enough to centralise it.”
| A northern cassowary (or single-wattled cassowary) |
The bird I really wanted to see, however, was the cassowary. I had only seen photos and videos of cassowaries, which always reminded of dinosaurs, so I was looking forward to “meeting” one in person. The cassowary enclosures turned out to be quite a long walk away from the rest of the birds. There was hardly anyone there. Only a couple of other visitors passed by on electric bikes. There were several cassowaries and each one had it is own enclosure. They were large, but also smaller than I thought they would be. I had brought my sketchbook with me, but since there weren’t any benches near the enclosures, I decided to take as many photos as I could for reference so that I could draw and paint the animals at home. The longer I observed the cassowaries, the eerier they looked. They were quiet and didn’t move much, but in my mind, they were orchestrating an epic prison break. I noticed that some of the wire mesh looked a little damaged. Perhaps when all the visitors had gone home, and none of the zookeepers were around, the cassowaries furiously pecked at their obstacles to freedom. None of them seemed to be bothered by my presence, which was a relief, because based on the videos I had seen, they could get quite loud and scary when they’re angry. I kept looking at the cassowaries, but they did not return my gaze. Berger:
“The zoo cannot but disappoint. The public purpose of zoos is to offer visitors the opportunity of looking at animals. Yet nowhere in a zoo can a stranger encounter the look of an animal. At most, the animal’s gaze flickers and passes on. They look sideways. They look blindly beyond. They scan mechanically. They have been immunised to encounter, because nothing can any more occupy a central place in their attention.”
| A Bornean orangutan |
After having seen most of the birds, I wanted to see the orangutans and elephants on my way out. Unlike the macaques and other smaller primates I had seen earlier, the orangutan was not in a cage. This is not say that the absence of bars or wire mesh indicates freedom, of course. As Berger notes, in zoos, “visibility, space, air, have been reduced to tokens.” Two small children, who I assumed to be siblings, were acting like sports commentators. They announced every single action they observed. “Orangutannya lari!” (The orangutan is running!) “Wah! Orangutannya manjat!” (Whoa! The orangutan is climbing!) They kept following the orangutan and one of them looked up at me as I was taking a photo of the majestic creature. As I marveled at the orangutan (which literally means “forest person” or “jungle person”), I began to wonder if people are able to feel sympathy for the great primates more than for other animals because of how much they resemble humans (another case for arguing against anthropocentrism). The children were still commentating, and I was starting to get tired. Soon, the children’s parents, who looked as I tired as I was, approached them, probably to tell them it was time to move on to the next enclosure. “One sees the animals through the curious face of one’s children,’ writes Kate Zambreno in “The Winter Zoo.”
| A Sumatran elephant |
The final stop was the elephant enclosure. When I got there, the elephants were busy eating. They were so far away from where I was standing, so I couldn’t get a good look at them. Still, I asked my husband to take a photo of me and the elephant in the distance to commemorate my birthday visit.
Later that night, I looked up the history of Ragunan, and a simple Google search led me to the zoo’s website and a number of relevant news articles. Unsurprisingly, the zoo has colonial roots. It was founded in 1864, during the Dutch colonial era, and is not much newer than the European zoos I listed earlier. It was originally called Planten en Dierentuin and was managed by the Culturele Vereniging Planten en Dierentuin (Cultural Association for Botanical Gardens and Zoo). The zoo used to be located in Cikini, which is impossible to picture in present-day Jakarta. Interestingly, the land it was built on was gifted by Raden Saleh, a famous painter who often depicted tigers in his paintings. After the struggle for independence, Planten end Dierentuin was renamed Kebun Binatang Cikini. Then in 1964, the zoo, along with its 450 animals, were relocated to its present location and on the 22nd of June, 1966, it was officially open to the public. The years in which this move took place carry the heavy weight of one of the darkest periods in Indonesian history.
Last month, my sister-in-law told me that she went out of her way to see Moo Deng during her most recent trip to Thailand. She said that Moo Deng mostly looked annoyed. But why wouldn’t Moo Deng be annoyed if visitors constantly came in droves, waiting to get a reaction? The social media hype clearly attracted one too many visitors, but since zoos are profit-seeking enterprises, ticket sales would trump the animals’ comfort. Berger:
“Looking at each animal, the unaccompanied zoo visitor is alone. As for the crowds, they belong to a species which has at last been isolated.
This historic loss, to which zoos are a monument, is now irredeemable for the culture of capitalism.”
So the question still remains: why do we look at animals? In my case, why paint them? At the zoo, there were moments when I was filled with awe. We share the world with so many forms of life, but I also couldn’t stop thinking about the ecological damage that has been done over the past few centuries, and how it has put so many animals, plants, and humans at risk. Far from being safe havens for animals, zoos are part of a wider web of capitalistic decay. The longer I observed the animals, the more I was able to notice the frayed feathers of birds, the patches of discolored elephant skin, and the sluggish movements of macaques. Are they lonely? Do they ever dream of freedom, even the ones born in captivity? My much younger self seemed to have understood that the sight of animals in cages induces discomfort. Maybe children know what it means to have limits imposed on them, to be denied full agency. The gap between zoo animals and human visitors is vast, but I could sense an affinity that made me want to keep looking, in the futile hope that I would be able to confront my own loneliness in their gaze.
